4/26/06 Day four in Istanbul...

Today we returned to the Grand Bazaar. We wanted to pick up a few small things - magnets, tea, etc...and Dustin wanted to continue his search for shoes. He returned to the store he had visited on our first trip to the GB, and discovered that they carried shoes big enough to fit his feet. Marion, Dustin, and I all ended up getting a pair of sneakers for 125 YTL, about $95. Dustin's pumas matched, exactly, the pair we had picked up for Kieran two days earlier.

After the successful shopping trip, we went back to the hotel, dropped off our purchases, and got ready to head back out. There was a power outage in our area of Istanbul. Dustin decided to stay and rest, while Marion, Kieran and I went out to check out Topkapi Palace, and perhaps the Haggia Sophia. We walk around the square a bit and find out that Haggia Sophia costs 10 YTL/person to enter. We decided against going there. Topkapi Palace also has a 10YTL/person entry fee, but we were out of cash and the ATMs in the square were not functioning due to the power outage. We walked around some more, and ended up wandering out the Divanyolu Caddesi, where there is power and I stop to get cash at a functioning ATM.

Topkapi Palace is worth the price of admission. Amazing! Hard to imagine a time when Sultans lived there, and the life of luxury they lived (and also the life of the people who supported such an operation…) Beautiful mosaic tilings, artifacts, fountains, etc…we see the old kitchens, the council chambers, the treasury and much more. The palace itself is a walled area, enclosing a campus of many buildings with beautiful lawns and gardens in between. The palace is situated on Seraglio Point, with many of the buildings overlooking the water. The harem portion - where the Sultan's wives and concubines were housed - required an additional admission fee. We passed on this, as we felt that what we had seen gave us enough of a feel for the history of the palace.

Other Topkapi highlights included a mantle which is said to have been worn by the prophet Muhammed. The room in which this mantle is kept is heavily guarded, and visitors can only peer in from an adjoining room, while religious officials keep a steady watch (and chant...) There was also the Sultan's "throne" room. Rather than a throne, the room in which the Sultan held court had something that looked more like a bed, where it could be envisioned that the Sultan would recline while receiving visitors.

After touring the palace, we wandered along the shops next to Haggia Sophia and bought some magnets. At one point while Marion was in one of the shops, a young woman seeing Kieran came and literally started pulling him out of his stroller. I had to quickly unsnap his buckles. She held him, hugged him, and kissed him (getting some lipstick on him…) and said some things to me, in what I assumed to be Turkish. She said things, and pointed around, but mainly just seemed fascinated by Kieran. Eventually, she handed him back and left.

We saw the same salesmen in the square area each day we passed through. Each time they recognized us, and continually tried to build their rapport with us. There was no indication that they had a shop anywhere nearby, although they would ask if we wanted to come see their shops (mainly carpets…) Some of these seemed to be at the GB…which was at least a mile away. They were aggressive in trying to talk to us, but were easygoing and easy to deal with. They didn’t pressure or put up any resistance when we politely declined.

The power outage made the hotel difficult to negotiate. The stairwell is completely enclosed, and no daylight gets in. The staff put up candles which helps us avoid any major falls! Using the restroom is challenging, as well, since there are no windows the door must be left open. Kieran gets his first bloody/fat lip as a result of Daddy trying to stop him from running into the bathroom while his big brother was using it!!! He’s pretty good sport about it, and only cries for a moment.

We returned once again to the “backpacker/Australian” street, and back to the first place we had visited. One of the waiters there was very friendly, and spoke to us extensively. He put us in a window seat, with the window opening onto the street. His English was decent and we came to find out that in addition to Turkish and English, he is fluent in French. Another waiter (or perhaps the owner? He was referenced as not having paid the electric bill…) comes over to place a blanket on Kieran, who is sleeping. We could not pay with our credit card because of the power outage, and lacking enough YTL we paid in American $. They were happy to take the American currency.


















We decided to have our last dinner at our original local outdoor café, and to take in the Whirling Dervish one last time. They have no way to take credit cards either, because of the power outage. Our man there talked to his manager and came back to tell us that we could just come back and pay later, since we were such good customers! We explained that would have been fine except that we are leaving early in the morning. We returned to the hotel, and started to get some of our things organized for the morning. We were worried about how we will be able to get everything ready if there are no lights.

Eventually, I left and headed out Divanyolu Caddesi to an ATM where there was power. A man walking next to me pegged me as an American and strikes up a conversation. I asked if I stood out that much, and he said no it wasn’t that, just that he had lived in NYC for a while, and was familiar with the way I dressed. He asked me why I was out on my own, without my family. I had to explain the power outage.

We finally have dinner at our local cafe. After dinner we have tea, and then our man offers us a tea on the house. We gratefully accept. The hospitality at this cafe has been exceptional throughout our visit. Each time we arrived, they made an effort to see that we are placed at a good table. On one occasion several of the staff apologized profusely when we were forced to sit for a few minutes at a less desirable table before being moved to one of the more comfortable tables at the rear of the cafe. The Whirling Dervish was there again, and after his performance a small band struck up inside the tented portion of the cafe. Eventually a young man sitting with his wife/girlfriend, got up and started dancing in front of the band. He pranced to the beat on his heels and toes, and outstretched his arms/hands as he does so. Eventually, the band kicked up the pace a notch and he did likewise. Faster and faster they went. A large group of young men at a table behind us started clapping to the beat and Kieran joined in (to their delight…) Faster and faster and faster…it almost seemed to be a competition to see how fast he could go. Eventually, it ends and everyone gives him an ovation. He and his partner collected their things and departed.

We were scheduled to depart the hotel at 3 a.m. the following morning for the return trip to the airport, so it was an early night! Following the second round of tea, we returned to the hotel, got the baby to bed (thankfully, he went down easily...) and got to sleep ourselves.